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Some of the oil passes from the main passage in the oil cooler cover to the centrifugal cleaner and then, after cleaning, flows back to the sump.
Surplus oil is drained back to the sump via an
overflow valve. This ensures that the pressure in the oil system is not too high.
The centrifugal cleaner’s rotor is caused to spin by the force of the oil which squirts out through two nozzles at the bottom of the rotor.
Dirt particles are slung against the wall of the rotor by centrifugal force and fasten there as a coating.
The rotor should be dismantled and cleaned at definite intervals according to the inspection pro- gramme included in the operator’s manual.
1. Housing
2. Plug
3. Gasket
4. Spring
5. Piston
6. Plug
7.Washer
8.Shaft
9. Nozzle
10. Rotor
11. Strainer
12. O-ring (change when cleaning)
13. Rotorbowl
14. Nut
15. Snap ring
16. O-ring (change when cleaning)
17. Cover
18. Lifting eye
19. O-ring
20. Lock nut
21. Nipple
22. Gasket
Dismantling and assembly
– During routine cleaning of the oil cleaner, there
should be a certain amount of dirt deposits in
the rotor bowl.
– If this is not the case, it indicates that the rotor
is not spinning. The cause of this must be
immediately investigated.
– If the dirt deposit exceeds 28 mm at the
recommended intervals, the rotor bowl should
be cleaned more often.
1. Undo the nut holding the outer cover and
remove the nut.
2. Drain out the oil from the rotor
3. Lift out the rotor. Wipe off the outside. Undo
the rotor nut and unscrew it about three turns
to protect the bearing.
note：The rotor must not be put in a vice. Never strike the rotor bowl.
This may cause damage resulting in imbalance.
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4. If the rotor nut is difficult to get loose, turn
the rotor upside down and fasten the rotor nut
in a vice.
5. Turn the rotor counterclockwise 1,5 turns
by hand, if this does not help, use M20 screw
and nut as shovn on the figure 308.
6. Grasp the rotor bowland tap lightly with
your hand or carefully use a screwdriver between the rotor bowl and the strainer so that the rotor bowl comes loose from the rotor.
8. Remove the strainer located on the rotor. If
the strainer has fastened, prise carefully with
a knife or screwdriver at the bottom between the rotor and the strainer.
9. Scrape away the deposits inside the bowl
with a knife.
10. Wash the parts.
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11. Inspect the two nozzles on the rotor. Make
sure they are not blocked or damaged.
Renew with new rotor if
any damaged on the nozzles.
12. Make sure the bearings are not damaged.
Renew with new rotor if
any damaged on the bearing
12. Make sure the bearings are not damaged.
Renew with new rotor if
any damaged on the bearing
13. Position the O-ring in the lid. Renew the
O-ringif it is at all damaged.
14. Assemble the parts and tighten the rotor nut
by hand.
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15. When tighten the rotor axle (point 15) its neccesarry to
modified the Socket spanner 8023 with to weld nut M20 without threads,
on the square end.
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The socket spanner 8023 is still usable for the old type of the cen-
trifugalfilter after this modification
16. Make sure the shaft is not loose. If it is, it can
be locked using screw locking compound.
First clean thoroughly using a suitable
solvent.
17. Tighten the rotor shaft using socket 8023.
Tightening torque 34 Nm.
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18. Refit the rotor and spin it by hand to make
sure it rotates easily.
19. Inspect the O-ring on the cleaner housing
cover and fit it with a lock nut.
Tighten the lock nut to 15 Nm.
